Golfers looking for a golf holiday usually dont think of heading north above the Arctic Circle and I have to admit, golf was not the main reason for traveling to the stunning Lofoten Islands off the coast of northern Norway. But sometimes, the unexpected is the most rewarding and we were rewarded indeed with a round of golf at a beautiful and intriguing golf course. Lofoten is a chain of small islands that are distinguished by high mountain peaks which provide spectacular views. The craggy rocks, often covered in mist, jut out from the clear blue north Atlantic, providing a unique landscape. Dotted with small fishing villages and rugged little farms, Lofoten is a popular tourist destination in the warm summer months. We took a flight north from Oslo, which lasted a bit over two hours, to the port city of Bodo, just above the Arctic Circle. This city is underwent a complete rebuilding after World War II, so is quite modern, with several nice new hotels that overlook the harbor. Even in early May, the sun was still quite bright at midnight and barely dusk by 2:00 A.M. Lofoten is accessible by the coastal ferries and it is possible to walk on a ferry in Bodo, but we opted to rent a car and drive north on the mainland, loping around to access Lofoten by a shorter ferry ride from the north. We had no problem finding a nice hotel in the fishing town of Svalvaer, where the winter catch of cod fish was still out drying in the sun on huge racks, about three stories high. The golf course in Lofoten is about a half hour drive from Svalvaer. At that time of year, it is possible to play at midnight or at 4:00 A.M., and one can opt to pay for a twenty-four hour day and come back at different times, rather than the typical green fee for 9 or 18 holes. Rather than disrupt our schedule, we went at the more conventional time of mid-morning and had the course to ourselves for most of our game. There are no power carts to rent, as they would not be of much use in climbing the narrow trails through the rocks to the elevated tees. Club rental is available and once we were suitably fixed up, we struck off. The fairways were surprisingly lush but the greens struggle a bit in the harsh climate. Many of the tee boxes were back in the rocks and many of the greens were protected by natural gorse or the ocean waves. The third hole was particularly interesting with a high elevated tee, set back in the craggy rocks, requiring a shot over the ocean or beach, depending whether the tide was in or out. Looking out over the endless vista of the ocean and the mist covered mountains, feeling the freshness of the sea air and the sun shining through the spectacular clouds, I felt very insignificant playing my meaningless little game. Yet, at the same time, there was a tremendous sense of peace that comes with an acceptance of ones own insignificance in the face of nature and the total humanness of frivolous pursuits in such a spectacular setting. It was as close to a mystical experience as I have ever experienced on a golf course, or anywhere. |
